It seems like every day I am here, I am humbled by a new facet of Pohnepian life. Some of the more powerful experiences with humility have come my experiences with this island's landscape. I would describe it exactly like my students do. "One of a kind." I wish I could put into words what it's like to witness the endless, blue hues of the Pacific Ocean. Or the beauty of a sunset behind Sokeh's Ridge while perched on the Jesuit balcony. Or the breathtaking island trees we pass each and everyday to school. Sure, 3x5's may give you some idea. But to be here. To really "be" here and absorb what surrounds me everyday is humbling to say the least.
However, anyone tourist who steps off of a Continental flight and walks through the 14-foot long airport terminal would be humbled by these same things. I think it is a universal experience to be had. I think that the luster and amazement might begin to fade for someone with a more permanent position on island. (I sure hope that doesn't happen to me)
What won't fade are the ever-changing relationships I build from sun up to sun down. I will admit, I don't do a whole lot of building at 7 a.m. in our kitchen nook.
(I say "nook" in reference to the fact that when Samantha opens our refrigerator, the door hits the chair where Luke is sitting. If Luke scoots back to avoid the door, he will probably find himself getting in the way of Josephine doing the dishes. Josephine will instinctively scoot a few steps out the way to avoid the refrigerator door/Luke predicament. Unfortunately, her scoot probably landed her in the laundry room. Our nook has a lot of morning congestion.)
ANYWAY, mornings continue to be a struggle for me. But right when I step out of our front door, my day really starts. If I'm lucky, Irvin and his brother Billy will stop me at the bottom of the street. Irvin is a one of the most sincere, well-mannered children I have met. He is also constantly worried about the whereabouts of each JVI. He usually goes straight from "lehlia" (hello) to "Did you just come from work? Is Josephine still there? Oh ok. Samantha is already at your house. See you later." It is the perfect cure for a tough day...especially if I get roped into a game of jump-rope or a coloring contest.
It seems like a very "American" tendency to shy away from what we don't already know. For about 99% of the Pohnpeian people I have met, it is the exact opposite. People here are genuinely interested in who you are, how you are and why the hell you are here. It is comforting to see their eyes light up and the corners of their mouths curve upward when I say, "I'm a Jesuit Volunteer." For those faces that stay confused, I say "Peace Corps?" nervouslly, hoping it rings a more familiar bell. That will usually do the trick.
Back on track, back on track. Humility. Let me explain a weird quirk about Pohnpeian interaction. If you want to compliment someone on their clothing, never say, "Wow, I really like that shirt." That person will react in one of two different ways: 1) Go home. Wash aforementioned shirt. Deliver shirt to you as a gift the next day or 2) Take shirt off. Immediately deliver as a gift. They will give and give and give until they have nothing. In a non-traditional way of thinking, I think that makes these people and this culture inherently rich. Maybe not in Warren Buffet's opinion, but certainly in mine.
During the past month, three very humbling things have happened at Pohnpei Catholic School. The first came from a car wash. I know, I know. How can liquid soap and carnauba wax humble anyone? On this particular day, we were raising money for something close to my heart. Something that has been missing for 10 years at this school. A YEARBOOK. For the entire week leading up to this fateful Saturday, a pessimistic voice in my head kept nudging my common sense whispering, "Hey imbecile, it rains everyday in Kolonia. Who will want to get their car washed?" and "What, are you going to hold 50 car washes to pay for this thing? Good luck." Even if this voice had been right - the entire thing was worth it.
My coworkers felt more like friends. My students felt more like my kids. P.C.S felt like a family rather than just an educational institution. For this to happen because of a simple carwash made me feel like a small part of something bigger than anything I've been a part of. Not to mention, we raised over $1,100. No typographical errors here: OVER ELEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARS. If that's not one big slice of "humble pie," I don't know what is.Just one week later was Thankgiving Day. This one day produced two of the most significant experiences I have had here:
1) Every year, students are asked to bring the "fruit of the land" on the morning of Thanksgiving. For most of you reading this, you may have some tomatos growing on a trellis in the backyard. It's a little different here. Before school even started, parents were helping their kids hoist yams bigger than my head into our Church. And the bananas....well, let's just say the Chiquita lady better watch her back. All of these exotic (well, exotic to me - completlely normal to everyone else) fruits are brought to the local hospital and jail as a sign of giving thanks for everything God has given us.
Admittedly, I have often thought of just how impoverished some areas of Pohnpei are. Some houses look unlivable, some children look unhealthy and some situations look unfortunate. I have felt empathy, sympathy, and all of those feelings that the well-off usually feel for the poor. Admittedly, I have often heard Bible stories explaining how the poor woman giving her last bit of bread is a greater sacrifice that the rich man offering his prize bull. I just don't feel like I bought into that idea until now.
We filled two flat-bed trucks to the brim with breadfruit, coconut, banana, yam, taro, sugar cane, mango, and plenty of other fruits I can neither remember nor pronounce. I began to understand Thanksgiving in a different way. We offered prayers and songs to the sick and incarcerated. Our gifts were simple - but our service to the community was certainly more than that. I watched very carefully as Joanna and Gaysha read Bible verses to inmates and as Joey offered a plate of fresh fruit to a bed-stricken woman. Those feelings of empathy and sympathy that I once felt were replaced by something completely different. They were replaced by the realization that I need to stop analyzing everything I see. I need to start absorbing it.
2) As we pass through this holiday season, I have come to realize one thing. Pohnpeians really embody this semi-popular phrase: Go big or go home. Pohnpeians go big. And if you think about it, I don't really have the option. One of the biggest blessing I (and all JVIs) have found here is a feeling of being welcome. This is especially true at the Pangelinan home. Eugene and Lynn regularly greet us in the morning and we spend many afternoons sharing stories with their children, Mark and Grace. I can count on Lynn for some motherly advice: "Philip. You need to start taking hot showers. Those boils look serious." Good idea Lynn. Eugene takes advice to the next level: "Hey Philip. No wonder Luke is the only one bringing a girlfriend out here." Thanks Eugene. Mark, their 14-year-old, joins us on the basketball court each week and will soon be swatting all of my jump shots. Grace is always keeping her older brother in line with a quick smack on his arm. I can't help but give her candy (or whatever she wants) whenever I see her. As you can tell, this family is more than just our neighbors.
They invited us over for an amazing spread of food. No, I was not eating dog and SPAM. All of the traditional fixins: turkey, ham, mash potatos and gravy. Desert was a little different. I forced down some sakau that I had pounded earlier. Pounding the roots of a pepper plant is harder than it looks. I don't know if I would be able to hack it at a market. Actually, I know I couldn't.
They had plenty of desert: Cakes, apple crisp, all of my favorites. I was just a little too full from all the humble pie. (What a cheesy ending. I'll try to avoid that on the next post)
Happy Holidays to all and to all a pwong mwahu (good night) !
P.S. Here is a list of things I have experienced but do not have time to explain right now:
-Centipede bite on the head
-Hunting rats in Josephine's room. I should have mounted the 11-incher I got in November
-Spear fishing by the island of Napali
-Pohnpei State Soccer league (www.pohnpeisoccer.com)
